Road Trip to Glacier National Park

The Drive

When we planned our journey around the United States, the anticipation of some long driving days was part of the bargain you make with yourself to see the the wonders of nature and enjoy the changing scenery. Our trip for this section began in Idaho Falls, Idaho where we stayed the night in a Hampton Inn to rest from the small confines of the van and soak in a warm shower to our heart’s content. Yesterday’s drive was some 450 miles after we left Great Basin National Park and today we will cover another 400 plus miles to arrive at the west entrance to Glacier National Park and hopefully a spot in the Apgar campground.

A Friendly Beginning

Knowing that we would be camping in a semi-closed campground, or even spending the night in a boondock spot, we needed to fill the water tank to it full capacity of 30 gallons. In addition, it dawned on me, as I lay awake in the middle of the night, that we had never checked the air pressure in the spare tire the entire year and a half that we had owned the van. Sometimes the simplest things can be forgotten, it seems. After fueling up at a Wal-Mart gas station, where we found on the Gas Buddy App was the cheapest place in Idaho Falls, we tried our luck the the Wal-Mart Automotive center to see if they would check the spare tire for air pressure. If we were even luckier, we may find a hose and fill up the water tank. One of the young men working in the shop was friendly and happy to help. He even stopped the work on a paying job to help us out with both problems. It was a good move as both tire and tank were very low. While I am almost never a Wal-Mart shopper at home in California, you can find good people and good companies everywhere, and usually when you do not expect it.

A Change of Scenery and a New Road

The route from Idaho Falls to Apgar Visitor Center in Glacier National Park turned out to be one of the most beautiful western road trips I have taken. Once we leave Idaho Falls, the empty spaces of pale green sagebrush and dry grey earth, so prevalent in the flat areas of the western states, changes to golden grassy prairie and rolling hills between majestic mountains, dotted with forest-green pines. I had never been north of Idaho Falls and a sojourn into Montana’s Rocky Mountains is a first for me. The prevailing notation as we drive, is how many lakes and rivers are around every corner and new sightline. Route I-15 and then a change to I-90 delivers scenic pleasure on all fronts. There are many overlooks and mountain passes through several small towns and modest cities like Dillon, known for its rich history and outdoor recreational activities and Missoula, a city located in western Montana, known for its vibrant arts scene, museums, and outdoor recreation. I have always wanted to see Missoula, as some of my past business acquaintances from the area often told me that “if you have to live in Montana, you want to live in Missoula.” Until now, I have just had to take their word for it. Missoula is lovely and we wish we could stop and visit, but we are trying to reach Glacier National Park and the Apgar Visitors Center before it closes.

Flathead Lake

Most the the last hour of so of our trip to Glacier National Park is dominated by the long drive along the eastern shore of Flathead Lake. The lake is huge and beautiful and unexpected. It is the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi in the lower 48 states, with over 200 square miles of water and 185 miles of shoreline. The southern half of Flathead Lake is within the boundary of the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribes Flathead Reservation. Montana Fish Wildlife and Parks maintains thirteen public access sites around the lake but what we notice most of all is how few homes are nestled on its shores. Cattle graze on grass and alfalfa right down to the waters edge and the eastern shores are filled with gigantic cherry tree orchards. Dozens of cherry stands line the drive on Highway 35, where you can buy cherries by the pound or bucketful. As a Californian, this lake seems like prime real estate, and we marvel at how much empty land surrounds the beautiful lake. One hiker we met from the area noted our surprise at this and he jokingly, but with a rueful tone said: ” Yes, there are not 10,000 homes around the lake, there are a few hundred 10 million dollar homes instead.”

West Glacier National Park and Lake McDonald

Once we reach the outskirts of Glacier National Park, are greeted by stunning views of snow-capped mountains, pristine lakes, and lush forests. A recent snowfall has given a look of what CT says is “a sprinkling of powdered sugar” on the upper peaks. Lake McDonald is best known on instagram, where influencers get their post photo at the lake’s edge. Under-the-surface multi-colored rocks and distant mountains provide the clickbait. The wind and wave on the lake prevent such a photo today, but we are content to walk and take in our first views of the stunning glacier carved peaks in the distance. The Apgar Visitor Center is located near the west entrance of the park and offers a variety of services such as information on park activities, exhibits on park history and culture, and a giftshop. We ask loads of questions and get great answers about hikes and bear issues. Luckily, the hikes we hoped to do have not been closed to grizzly activity (some have) and we will go on our hikes with bear spray at the ready. The ranger we speak with tells us that Lake McDonald is the largest lake in Glacier National Park. It is approximately 10 miles long, over a mile wide, and 472 feet deep. We learn that like many of the features here in the park, the lake was formed from a combination of glacial activity and erosion. The lake is surrounded by a dense coniferous forest dominated by various species of spruce, fir, and larch. Grizzly bears, black bear, moose, and mule deer are found in many places near the lake but are most common on the north shore.

Boondocking or “Dispersed Camping”

Apgar campground, near Lake McDonald is nearly closed down and for the sites that do remain open this time of year…. they are full. In fact, most of the park’s infrastructure is shuttered, and what is not already closed, preparations are being made for a winter lock-down. All the lodges, hotels, KOA’s, and other local, just-outside-the-park amenities are also closed for the season. We are resigned, but hopeful that we can boondock just outside the park. The ranger called it dispersed camping, and gave us some options far away near another lake. We found instead, a quite road with some little cabins and closed up lodges where there was a trailhead parking area. We tucked the van up in the wooded space, got things leveled out, made dinner and went to bed. It worked out fine. No one bothered us.